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Monday, October 12, 2015

Paithani Silk Sarees


The key element of a Paithani is its completely hand-woven border and pallu.
A true Paithani sari is characterised by the borders of an oblique and square design having a pallu with a peacock. 
   They are available in kaleidoscope colours and this effect is achieved by varying the weave.
    A particular colour is used for weaving lengthwise while another is used width wise. The design woven on the border separates it from all other saris.
    The greatest specialty of Paithani lies in its pallu wherein various distinctive motifs such as bangdimors, asavali, shikharkhana, gazwel, akroti, Ajanta Lotus are used.
    The Paithani sari can also have edges lined with rare gems and precious pearls.
The vegetable dyes are specially prepared.
    Gifting Paithani saris in a girl’s wedding trousseau is customary in the region of Maharashtra.

How to Take care and Maintain Silk Sarees 
  •  Do not use soap for the first three washes. 
  • Gently rinse in plain cold water.
  • For the subsequent washes, use a mild detergent.
  • Wash the pallu, border and body separately.
  • Provide good air circulation when in storage.
  • Do not use naphthalene balls or chemical to protect from insects.
  •  Drop few Cloves around to avoid insects.
  • Never use plastic or regular cardboard boxes to store.
  • Do not use hangers. Wrap in muslin cloth.
  • Store in Wooden chest or wooden cupboard. 

Wednesday, August 26, 2015

Chikankari -An Unique Art from Lucknow,India

Chikankari is  a popular embroidery work which is practiced in Lucknow the capital of Uttar pradesh in India for more than 400 years. This art form which was diminishing  was revived by govt .


Lucknow - Location Map

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Chikankari is an unique, old art from Lucknow which is passed through generations,developed and preserved here.This place has been recognized as "Exclusive hub of Chikankari" by the Art of Lucknow Geographical Indication Registry.This art is mainly practiced in and around the Lucknow, famous for its 'tehzeeb' or (In Hindi) very refined,decorative pattern of work,here in Lucknow it has reached its most elaborate and distinctive form.Chikankari is also popularly known as "shadow work" because of the peculiar kind of needle work done on a fabric.

a chikan work on saree
A Chikan work on sari.

Chikan has been derived from the Persian word "Chakin" or 'Chikeen' means cloth designed with needlework and the art of creating chikan work is known as 'Chikankari'.A study on the origin of Chikan reveals that this form of embroidery had come to India from Persia,though some say it was from West Bengal

History of the Chikan Embroidery in Lucknow
It was started in Lucknow during the Mughal period,and it is believed was introduced by Noor Jehan wife of Mughal ruler Jahangir.The artistic hand embroidery was initially done on the white muslin or fine cotton or chiffon fabric with white thread, worn by the royal people to enhance the beauty of the cloth.Sometimes yellowish silk was also used in addition to the white thread.These kind of works are normally done on the Topis(caps)kurtas,saris,scarf and now on all kinds of apparel.Though the art form started as white -on -white now it is done in all kinds of fabrics with different colors of thread to cope with modern trend.


Facts about Embroidery

  • Embroidery is a very important art in medieval Islamic world.
  • The art was a sign of high social status in Muslim societies and it was known as 'craft of two hands."
  • Elaborately embroidered cloth have been a mark of wealth and status in many cultures like Persia,India,china,Japan,and Europe.
  • The Chikan embroidery is mentioned in 16th century chronicle Ain-I-Akbari and also by a chronicler Megasthenes of 3rd century .
  • Embroidery art was used to depict the historical events like Tayeux tapestry where 231 feet long cloth portrays the Battle of Hastings in 1066.
Creation of Chikan fabric.
The creation of this art involves few steps,they are design,engraving the design,block printing,embroidery and washing the fabric to remove the dye marks.The source of most of the design motifs are Mughal in nature.
Mostly flowers,plants,leaves are chosen as designs.The bel or creeper was the most commonly used design, individual motifs or bhutis of animals and flowers were also made.Fish was very common motif in Lucknow and widely used because it was the emblem of the court of Oudh.
These designs are engraved in one or more dye blocks.These patterns are used to block print the design on the ground fabric.The embroider stitches the pattern using different suitable stitches, roughly there are more than 35 stitches are used.These stitches can be grouped mainly into three types they are flat stitches,raised and embossed stitches and open trellis like 'Jali' work.The refined pattern and effects are created depending on the types of stitches used and thickness of the threads used in the needlework.
In traditional chikan work no frames were used(as they are used now).The technique used was, the portion of the cloth to be embroidered is placed over the index finger in the left hand supported by the rest of the fingers leaving the thumb free.The thumb is used to hold the cloth tight in position to do the needlework.
There is a custom and method in application of stitches.It is a only kind of art where there is a strict norm is followed in application of stitches.A stitch assigned to a particular purpose is used only for that purpose not replaced by any other kind of stitches, for example, the chain stitches where used only for outlining a leaf,petal,flower or stem.The embroider creates famous 'jali' or shadow work in the design by using a needle to separate threads in the ground fabric and then working around the spaces.Noor Jehan's personal preference and desire to replicate the Turkish architectural special features like open work designs was said, to have resulted in introducing jali work in Chikan embroidery. The finished fabric is checked carefully for mistakes and washed in bhatti after which the fabric is then starched and ironed.The whole cycle can take one to six months to complete.
The unique lace or Jali work
The unique lace or Jali work

Mainly there are four kinds of Chikan work
1.Katao-where minute patterns of different materials are sewn in to the muslin.
2.Murri -a very minute satin pear shaped stitch in which a knot is formed over a pattern which is already completed.
3.Phanda-The knots are spherical and very small, not pear shaped like Murri .These stitches are very difficult and require craftsmanship,practice to do.
4.Jali Kholna-In which individual threads are carefully removed from fabric and re used in the same place to form a design.

Shops and range of price

Seva Industries
Sarees
1800-2000
kurtis
1600-1800
simple kurta
600-900
men's kurts
500-1000

Where to shop?

There are many shops at Chowk, Hazratganj, Aminabad, and Janpath.The better place to buy is from Seva Chikan Industries this is an organization present all over the city to help self-employed women and to promote local craft.They offer great variety,and you can buy at reasonable price as it is a wholesale shop.The rate depends upon the kind of fabric used and extent of artwork.There are other shops too they sell similar kind clothes( you have to bargain),shopping with a local guide is a better option here.

What else you can buy?

There is special sweet called 'revari',(must try)marble clips,wood baskets,clay models of fruits,vegetables,and toys.Lucknow is called the city of Nawabs,as a proof there are lots of parks ,buildings built with Mughal architecture to see.

Monday, July 6, 2015

Spices,Its not Just a Pinch of Them.

Spices- the most sought by human


Do you believe among the stuffs we use to prepare the dish, the spices were the most sought after item by the people, and by the countries. There were more feudal wars fought between the countries to own the spice producing Islands than for other reasons.Spices are not just great flavoring substance but they are great preservative and flavor enhancer in particular, ingredients like Cinnamon in Cakes,and Saffron in Biriyanis and sweet desserts.
 Spices have different flavours, and characterestic, while some of them serve for more than one purpose.
Spices can improve the taste and give great appeal to dull diets or spoiled food. 
The peculiar flavors stimulate salvation,induces appetite and promotes digestion.
Some spices are used for their taste,(ginger) while others are used for their aroma(cinnamon,clove). Complex flavors can be made by using mixtures of spices (Garam Masala) that compliment each other.

.What are spices?
According to Ayurvedic medicine “Spices can be used for cooling and warming purpose and are used in appropriate quantity to affect balance of the digestive system”
As a example pungent spices like ginger, turmeric, clove can cause sweating ,which may even cause a cooling sensation in tropical climate, while pepper, chillies, paprika can add a sense of inner warmth when used in cooked food in colder climates.

Difference between spice and Herb
Spice
“A spice is defined as an aromatic part of a tropical plant,be it a root (ginger,turmeric)
A bark-cinnamon,resin of bark –Asafoetida,
flower – Saffron,
or seed- Ajowin,cumin,pepper,coriander.
Herb
“Herb is a plant that does not have woody stem and dies at the end of growing season,- basil, thyme, rosemary, mint,parsley.

How is the flavor trapped in Spices?
The aroma and flavor of spices comes from essential oils. These chemical compounds present in most of the spices are volatile in nature.(evaporate when they are exposed, like perfumes) Most of the spices need to be cooked before taken with food.Spices are lipophilic, that is they combine very well with fat substance in high temperature than with water or cold oil.(As you know it as "saute" the first step in any kind of cuisine). when we add the spices the chemical compounds are released, with the heat in the oil the flavors are quickly trapped, and diffuse in the food and in the air. That’s why we get wonderful aroma around the place when spiced foods are cooked up. To aid the release of volatile compounds from the spices ensure the oil is hot and the outer covering of the spices is ruptured by any of these methods, grinding, pounding, grating, and crushing.
The stage at which spices are added to the dish also makes a big difference.When they are added in the beginning they create a good flavor,than they are added in the end of the cooking where their flavor don’t mix with the food and can be noticed distinctively.

How to store the spices
Using a fresh high quality spice can make a difference in the dish cooked.Here are some tips to store the spices in a prime quality.
  1. Always buy in small quantities.When you buy see they are fresh,not faded,and are distinctively aromatic.
  2. Whole spices last for a longer times than ground ones.
  3. Store them in a clean,airtight containers away from air, heat,light and moisture and handle them thoughtfully.(close the lid of the container properly after use,use dry hands)
  4. If you buy in larger quantity, take out required amount for the monthly usage in a separate container,rest you pack and store them in a way that it will not come in direct contact with light,heat,moisture or the best way is to store them in Refrigerators .
  5. The shelf life of spices varies with form and part of the plant.(spices which have been cut or powdered have more surface area exposed to the air and they lose their flavor more quickly than in their whole form)
whole spice
flowers- 1 to 2 yrs
seeds and barks-2 to 3 yrs , roots-3 yrs
ground spice
seeds and barks -1 year
roots -2 yrs
leaves -1 year
6.Keep them away from cooking stove and microwave.
7.Storing in a glass jar with label(to protect from sunlight,heat)is always preferable.

                                                        Some commonly used Spices
AsaFoetida

Caraway

Cardamom

Cinnamon

Clove

Coriander

Cumin

Fennel

Fennel leaves

Fenu Greek

Ginger

Mace

NutMug

Pepper

Red Chillies

Saffron 

Sumac

Mustard

Vanilla Pod

Turmeric Powder

Tamarind











Major Health Factor
Spices helps to improve your health.They reduce the sodium content in the food while enhancing the flavour of food. Reducing sodium is really a good health factor which directly reduces the risk of high blood pressure, strokes and Haemorrhage.

Some interesting facts about Spices:
  • Spices were introduced to Western cuisine by the Romans during the spice trade to the East.
  • The word spice is derived from word “species.”
  • In ancient times Arabia was the center of spice trade.
  • The need to supply spice in the European markets spurred explorations, extraordinary voyages and discovery of new worlds.
  • Chocolate pods were valued so much they were used as the equivalent of money by Aztecs.
  • Pepper corns were accepted as a substitute of money in Medieval times.
  • The use of rare spices in food is considered as a sign of wealth in Rome, where in Europe liberal amount of spice is used to impress or for political gain.

 By looking  at the history,and uses of the  spices,  you can consider how, when to use spices in your cooking to get  new, unexpected flavors to your meals.and also to  have the maximum health  benefits from them and realize why they were part of Indian cuisine  from time unknown.

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